Saturday, October 6, 2007

The end of the road - Hana


From Hana to Hanalei – journeys to the end of the road………….

At 5pm, we hit the highway – but not any highway you are thinking of. This one is two lanes wide at the very widest point, many times it is less then one lane, and cars must alternate right of way. The 45 mile drive took just under 2 hours, with virtually no traffic. We drove through the bright sun, turning to sunset, with showers popping up from time to time as we wound our way along the coastine of Maui’s North Shore. And at the end of the road…..Hana.

If you haven’t been there yet, you really need to start making plans now for the next opportunity that may allow you this ultimate escape. We had been there a few times, on a day trip, or for a camping weekend at the Seven Sacred Pools of Oheo Gulch. But it was always with kids in tow, and sing-alongs on the radio, and fighting in the backseat. This time, the windows were open, a new CD was playing, the cool misty rain welcomed evening, and we wound our way to the ultimate escape. Our destination this time, Hotel Hana Maui.

We pulled under the porte-cochere, illuminated by glowing torches, and we were greeted right away by a smiling face and a warm welcome. A few steps to check-in, and then we were directed to drive over to another section of the resort, where we were once again met by a friendly staff member, and driven by golf cart right to our door. We were lucky enough to be staying in a Sea Ranch Cottage, and as we stepped inside, the warm welcome continued. The spacious cottage had an enormous bathroom, two porches, a king size bed, a living and dining area, and a kitchenette. On the dining table, a card from the general manager, welcoming us, congratulating us on our anniversary (the reason for this adults-only sojourn) and noting in the postscript that “the bubbly is in the fridge – enjoy !”. (Lest you think that it was only because of my job that we had such special treatment, fear not – I saw notes from the GM several times during my site inspection the next day – well wishes for honeymooners and repeat guests as well.)

We set down our bags and wandered back towards the main building along winding paths, across rolling lawns, past hammocks swinging in the breeze and Jacuzzis steaming into the night sky, making a mental “to-do” list of every temptation we passed, as we headed for dinner. We were still dressed for the road in casual attire, and while Hawaii is known for the casual look, collared shirts are de rigeur after 6 in the dining room, so we settled in the lounge, ordered off the dinner menu from the dining room, and enjoyed an hour of live Hawaiian music and hula along with our dinner.

Later, as we made our way back to the cottage, I asked my husband what time it was. “I don’t know” he said “and I don’t care. It doesn’t matter.” And that is when I realized I was truly on vacation. We changed into swim suits, sank into a ferociously hot Jacuzzi, and giggled under the stars, completely alone under the most glorious night sky you can imagine. We returned to the cottage for bed, noting that lack of alarm clock, TV and radio, and sank into a blissful sleep on a mattress topped not only by a thick quilted top, but also a feather bed, wrapped in luxury cotton sheets. Heaven.

The next morning, we were up for sunrise, which is exquisite on the East Side of Maui. After grinding local Maui-grown coffee beans and making a fresh pot of coffee, we relaxed on the deck overlooking the ocean, watching horses at pasture, and trees (a dizzying mix of palm and pine) swaying the breeze. Steaming mugs in our hands, and bringing a “just-in-case” umbrella, we headed out for yoga – a complimentary class held in a hardwood-floored studio overlooking the peaceful garden pool. We stretched and relaxed to the sounds of birds and surf crashing nearby. We returned to our room to change for a coastal horseback ride, and walked the 2 blocks to Hana town.

The next two hours are a blur of sights and sounds, the wind blowing through our hair and the sun on our shoulders. We walked past churches and the old Hana School, browsed the bulletin boards, relaxed at the Hana Ranch Restaurant, and listened to old friends making jokes and talking about the catch from that morning’s fishing. We made our way, eventually, to the stables. My husband rode Pal, a very large horse who apparently likes not only to be in front, but also enjoys breaking into a strong gallop with no urging from his rider whatsoever. My husband hung on gamely as he took his very first trail ride – and what a trail. The horses led us along the rugged Hana Coastline, pausing for pictures, and to absorb the beauty laid out before us, and every so often becoming so absorbed in the view, they simply refused to move, as if to say “STOP and enjoy this, you are missing the best part !” My horse Cody spent a lot of time nibbling on the toes of my sneakers, and while it was very sweet, those sneakers will not be making it back to the gym, and I vowed to remember my boots the next time.

When we found ourselves back in the comfort of our cottage, showered and sunburned, and hungry, we contemplated room service….but my husband decided to head over to the pool and relax in one of the hammocks, and order a sandwich over there. I had a few things I needed to do to prepare for the radio show (www.mccoytravelradio.com) and I also had a site inspection and a Tahitian Dance lesson to get to.

After calling in to our broadcast, I shopped at several stores on property, walked through the spa, and had the most inspiring dance experience ever. While I doubt I will ever be able to move my hips like that, it’s nice to dream, and my instructor made sure I wasn’t overwhelmed – 2 basic moves, that I still managed to bungle over and over again while I sweated and shimmied and gyrated. I’ll say this for sure – Tahitian Dance is a workout !

At the end of the day, after touring the property and making some great friends, we said a reluctant goodbye to Hana, and Hotel Hana Maui. We had to get back to the kids, and pack for our next great adventure – Hanalei.

The end of the road - Hana

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