The end of the road part 2 - Hanalei

Returning home in a daze from our complete relaxation in Hana, we were thrown full-force into "real life". A pizza dinner with our kids, friends, and their kids, followed by a tearful drive up the mountain to our Makawao home. After everyone was bathed and tucked in, we took a deep breath, emptied the bags, and started packing for the next trip. Our destination this time: Princeville Resort at Hanalei.

The disparity between the two resorts is hard to explain. While they are both located in the furthest reaches of the most green and gorgeous locations in Hawaii, at the very end of long and winding roads, over one lane bridges and past waterfalls and rolling meadows, Hana is like a spiritual retreat at the end of a long meditation. Princeville is like the Emerald City. Perched on a cliff overlooking the sleepy surf town of Hanalei, Princeville commands the coastline. Huge, glittering, and ultra-luxurious.

We arrived at dinner time, with 2 small, sleepy and VERY cranky children in tow. We were meeting family visiting from the mainland. They were there for a wedding, we were there to see their new baby. We were greeted as we pulled into the massive entrance by uniformed valets, synchronized in draping leis around our necks and providing curbside check-in. We were directed to room 808, which was, it turned out, a Junior Suite.

Let me stop right here and declare my complete and total devotion to the Princeville Junior Suite.

I laid eyes on one 3 years ago, on my first visit to the Princeville during a site inspection...and it has been lurking in my dreams ever since. Overlooking majestic Bali Hai (please refer to the movie South Pacific for further documentation of it's splendor) the junior suite is hard to beat. Great view, great layout, plenty of space, and of course, the "magic window" - which turns the bathroom windows (they make up the entire wall next to the tub and overlook the same insane view) to smoky privacy glass with a flip of the switch. While it is tempting to leave the windows clear to enjoy the view, modesty prevented me from doing so at night. But in the morning all bets were off and it was glorious to shower in the bright sunshine.

After allowing the kids to have an extra long bath (the tub is approximately the size of a Volkswagon) and ordering room service for dinner, the kids quickly fell asleep, just as the doorbell heralded the arrival of my newest relative, Gracie. We spent the evening in our room admiring all the sweet sleeping children and watching SNL - a great way to wrap up the first day of a family vacation. I surveyed the room again before turning off the light. We had a huge king size bed, separated from the rest of the room by a long low cabinet, and the rest of the room included a dining room table, 2 comfy armchairs, a full-sized sofa and an enormous TV cabinet with a DVD player. We also had a rollaway bed and a ridiculous amount of luggage, and yet the room was still clear and spacious. Bliss. Everyone in their own bed, with room to spare.

I jumped in bed, hit a button, and the TV rose out of the cabinet at the foot of our bed. Ahhhhhhhhh.

Sunday was spent exploring Hanalei - one of my favorite towns in all of Hawaii. Small, friendly and relaxed. The beach just a few steps away, a few great restaurants, and some cute shops. We had breakfast, grabbed a coffee, and headed to the beach. The green cliffs rise up behind you as you lie in the sand with the waves sweeping across your feet. The kids ran and dug and frolicked. The baby tried out her first bikini, courtesy of Auntie Vanessa. We headed back to the hotel for nap, Gracie joining us for a few hours so her mom and dad could get some rest too. They lay by the pool, overlooking the beach fronting the resort, and beyond.... the pristine waters of Hanalei Bay.

Then we headed back out for dinner at Bar Acuda. The food is tapas-style, so we ordered plates of the most wonderful food. The waiter recommended a great wine, and we lounged in a huge booth talking and laughing.

Monday morning we headed to Kilauea Bakehouse for a breakfast of fresh-baked pastries both savory and sweet, luscious smoothies, and rich coffees; and then back to the resort. The kids hit the pool, I lay poolside staring out at the ocean and waiting for poolside service to start at 11am. I was desperate for a Pina Colada. But then one thing led to another, and I ended up skipping the drink and heading back to my room to enjoy the view from my lanai until we had to check out. I just didn't want to miss the opportunity to recline on the cliff, overlooking the water and the mountains and the waterfalls and the mist and the boats and the clouds and, well, you get the idea. Our room led directly out to the lawn, so we had flowers and birds right outside the sliding doors, and I stretched out on my chair and thought "Yeah. I could get used to this."

All too soon it was time to go. And traveling with children is never a nice way to end a vacation. Even with a full grocery bag of treats and snacks, we still collapsed as soon as we got home, grateful that as bad as the fight had been it was SO WORTH IT.

Hanalei is the place I learned to surf. It is the place I go back to when I need to spend quiet time with my family and not feel like their rambunctiousness (and I am including my husband in this !) is bothering others. Hanalei LOVES kids. And they love Hanalei. They don't need or want beach toys, they are happy to just roll in the warm sand admiring the view and looking for Menehune in the green cliffs that rise up everywhere you turn.

So whether you choose a romantic escape or a family vacation - consider the end of the road. Pick a property that will take care of your needs, so you can focus on yourself and your family, without having to sweat the small stuff.

The end of the road part 2 - Hanalei