Mexico City - metropolitan, historical, BEAUTIFUL

I travel each year for my birthday (I know, lucky me - and yes, I AM incredibly spoiled thank you very much). My birthday is in February, and when we lived in New England, well, getting the heck out of there was not a hard decision. Over the years we have traveled to completely diverse destinations. 2007 was no exception. I decided on a 10 day trip to 3 destinations in Mexico.

Our first stop was Cancun - the water is a gorgeous clear turquoise, the sand is a fine white powder, and other then that, well, there really isn't anything to recommend it. You can find gorgeous ocean and beautiful sand in many wondrous places - and Cancun isn't one of them. I think I would have preferred to go to Isla Mujeres, and if I head in that direction again I will definitely make that our destination.

Then we got in our rental car and drove along the Riviera Maya to Tulum. Tulum is steeped in archaeological history and culture, amazing vistas, gorgeous beaches, friendly people, and a sense of adventure. We had not only a wonderful and relaxing time, but we learned so much, saw so many amazing things, and really felt like we left the area with a better understanding of Mexico - not just as a destination, but historically.

And then, we flew to Mexico City, and realized that Tulum was just the beginning. First, it is important to note that we were traveling with 2 small children. So throughout the trip, we played it safe. Made sure we were staying in resort areas, with clean drinking water, we didn't take some of the risks we might have considered if it had been just the two of us. (For example, instead of taxis or the subway in Mexico City, we had a car and driver. Which by the way, was insanely inexpensive, arranged by the hotel, and I think maximized our experience since we had a very limited amount of time in the city. But more about that later.) So with "safety" in mind, and wanting to ensure a safe and comfortable stay, we chose the Four Seasons Mexico City.

I need to pause again, to say (and I am paraphrasing Ferris Bueller here and totally dating myself) If you have the means, I highly recommend it. The Four Seasons, at virtually any destination - from the jungles of Africa to the cosmopolitan Mexico City - is flawless. We were greeted at the airport by a driver, sent by the hotel. We were greeted at the hotel by (and I am not exaggerating) a phalanx of staff and management. We were escorted to our room, which was set up with crib, child sized robes and slippers, sponges in the tub spelling out our children's names, brand new games and toys for the children to keep, and a full amenity basket for the baby with diapers, wipes, and all manner of lotion, shampoo and cream. Needless to say, by the time room service showed up with my birthday cake and a bottle of champagne, we were in heaven.

That night, we went out to dinner, again completely arranged ahead of time by the concierge with some input from me. A driver took us where we needed to go, ushered us into the restaurant, and made sure our reservation was confirmed before giving the manager his card and telling them to call him when we were ready to go. As dinner wound down, there he was waiting for us by the door, and we were escorted back to the car like celebrities (albeit with a sobbing sleepy toddler in our arms.)

The next morning we were greeted in the lobby by another gentleman, dressed in a gorgeous suit, who was going to be our driver and guide for the day. We only had one full day in the city, and we didn't want to waste a minute. Having a private car meant the baby could nap between stops, we could stop and use bathrooms or eat when we wanted, and go back to the hotel when we were ready. A full day of this 1st class service in a towncar ended up costing less then 3 tickets on a 4 hour group tour in a bus. I throw up on buses, so I was thrilled with this option.

Our driver took us to all the destinations mentioned in our tourbook as "must see" even if it was just a drive by. First we got a full tour of the city, pointing out all the significant government, cultural and religious sites. Then we headed out of town, and had lunch at the most GORGEOUS renovated hacienda - the San Angel Inn - before hitting the Saturday Market to do our shopping.

At the end of a very full day, we all closed our eyes and snoozed on the drive back to the hotel, where we had a quick shower and headed back out - again with a driver in a towncar - to a renowned restaurant in Mexico City for my birthday dinner.

Although we were only there for a short time, and as my husband put it, we traveled like rock stars, it planted a love in my heart for this amazing country. And I can't wait to go back, again, for MUCH longer (forever ?????) to get my fill of the culture, the people, the architecture, the art, the food, the love......Viva la Mexico !

The end of the road part 2 - Hanalei

Returning home in a daze from our complete relaxation in Hana, we were thrown full-force into "real life". A pizza dinner with our kids, friends, and their kids, followed by a tearful drive up the mountain to our Makawao home. After everyone was bathed and tucked in, we took a deep breath, emptied the bags, and started packing for the next trip. Our destination this time: Princeville Resort at Hanalei.

The disparity between the two resorts is hard to explain. While they are both located in the furthest reaches of the most green and gorgeous locations in Hawaii, at the very end of long and winding roads, over one lane bridges and past waterfalls and rolling meadows, Hana is like a spiritual retreat at the end of a long meditation. Princeville is like the Emerald City. Perched on a cliff overlooking the sleepy surf town of Hanalei, Princeville commands the coastline. Huge, glittering, and ultra-luxurious.

We arrived at dinner time, with 2 small, sleepy and VERY cranky children in tow. We were meeting family visiting from the mainland. They were there for a wedding, we were there to see their new baby. We were greeted as we pulled into the massive entrance by uniformed valets, synchronized in draping leis around our necks and providing curbside check-in. We were directed to room 808, which was, it turned out, a Junior Suite.

Let me stop right here and declare my complete and total devotion to the Princeville Junior Suite.

I laid eyes on one 3 years ago, on my first visit to the Princeville during a site inspection...and it has been lurking in my dreams ever since. Overlooking majestic Bali Hai (please refer to the movie South Pacific for further documentation of it's splendor) the junior suite is hard to beat. Great view, great layout, plenty of space, and of course, the "magic window" - which turns the bathroom windows (they make up the entire wall next to the tub and overlook the same insane view) to smoky privacy glass with a flip of the switch. While it is tempting to leave the windows clear to enjoy the view, modesty prevented me from doing so at night. But in the morning all bets were off and it was glorious to shower in the bright sunshine.

After allowing the kids to have an extra long bath (the tub is approximately the size of a Volkswagon) and ordering room service for dinner, the kids quickly fell asleep, just as the doorbell heralded the arrival of my newest relative, Gracie. We spent the evening in our room admiring all the sweet sleeping children and watching SNL - a great way to wrap up the first day of a family vacation. I surveyed the room again before turning off the light. We had a huge king size bed, separated from the rest of the room by a long low cabinet, and the rest of the room included a dining room table, 2 comfy armchairs, a full-sized sofa and an enormous TV cabinet with a DVD player. We also had a rollaway bed and a ridiculous amount of luggage, and yet the room was still clear and spacious. Bliss. Everyone in their own bed, with room to spare.

I jumped in bed, hit a button, and the TV rose out of the cabinet at the foot of our bed. Ahhhhhhhhh.

Sunday was spent exploring Hanalei - one of my favorite towns in all of Hawaii. Small, friendly and relaxed. The beach just a few steps away, a few great restaurants, and some cute shops. We had breakfast, grabbed a coffee, and headed to the beach. The green cliffs rise up behind you as you lie in the sand with the waves sweeping across your feet. The kids ran and dug and frolicked. The baby tried out her first bikini, courtesy of Auntie Vanessa. We headed back to the hotel for nap, Gracie joining us for a few hours so her mom and dad could get some rest too. They lay by the pool, overlooking the beach fronting the resort, and beyond.... the pristine waters of Hanalei Bay.

Then we headed back out for dinner at Bar Acuda. The food is tapas-style, so we ordered plates of the most wonderful food. The waiter recommended a great wine, and we lounged in a huge booth talking and laughing.

Monday morning we headed to Kilauea Bakehouse for a breakfast of fresh-baked pastries both savory and sweet, luscious smoothies, and rich coffees; and then back to the resort. The kids hit the pool, I lay poolside staring out at the ocean and waiting for poolside service to start at 11am. I was desperate for a Pina Colada. But then one thing led to another, and I ended up skipping the drink and heading back to my room to enjoy the view from my lanai until we had to check out. I just didn't want to miss the opportunity to recline on the cliff, overlooking the water and the mountains and the waterfalls and the mist and the boats and the clouds and, well, you get the idea. Our room led directly out to the lawn, so we had flowers and birds right outside the sliding doors, and I stretched out on my chair and thought "Yeah. I could get used to this."

All too soon it was time to go. And traveling with children is never a nice way to end a vacation. Even with a full grocery bag of treats and snacks, we still collapsed as soon as we got home, grateful that as bad as the fight had been it was SO WORTH IT.

Hanalei is the place I learned to surf. It is the place I go back to when I need to spend quiet time with my family and not feel like their rambunctiousness (and I am including my husband in this !) is bothering others. Hanalei LOVES kids. And they love Hanalei. They don't need or want beach toys, they are happy to just roll in the warm sand admiring the view and looking for Menehune in the green cliffs that rise up everywhere you turn.

So whether you choose a romantic escape or a family vacation - consider the end of the road. Pick a property that will take care of your needs, so you can focus on yourself and your family, without having to sweat the small stuff.

The end of the road part 2 - Hanalei

The end of the road - Hana

From Hana to Hanalei – journeys to the end of the road………….

At 5pm, we hit the highway – but not any highway you are thinking of. This one is two lanes wide at the very widest point, many times it is less then one lane, and cars must alternate right of way. The 45 mile drive took just under 2 hours, with virtually no traffic. We drove through the bright sun, turning to sunset, with showers popping up from time to time as we wound our way along the coastine of Maui’s North Shore. And at the end of the road…..Hana.

If you haven’t been there yet, you really need to start making plans now for the next opportunity that may allow you this ultimate escape. We had been there a few times, on a day trip, or for a camping weekend at the Seven Sacred Pools of Oheo Gulch. But it was always with kids in tow, and sing-alongs on the radio, and fighting in the backseat. This time, the windows were open, a new CD was playing, the cool misty rain welcomed evening, and we wound our way to the ultimate escape. Our destination this time, Hotel Hana Maui.

We pulled under the porte-cochere, illuminated by glowing torches, and we were greeted right away by a smiling face and a warm welcome. A few steps to check-in, and then we were directed to drive over to another section of the resort, where we were once again met by a friendly staff member, and driven by golf cart right to our door. We were lucky enough to be staying in a Sea Ranch Cottage, and as we stepped inside, the warm welcome continued. The spacious cottage had an enormous bathroom, two porches, a king size bed, a living and dining area, and a kitchenette. On the dining table, a card from the general manager, welcoming us, congratulating us on our anniversary (the reason for this adults-only sojourn) and noting in the postscript that “the bubbly is in the fridge – enjoy !”. (Lest you think that it was only because of my job that we had such special treatment, fear not – I saw notes from the GM several times during my site inspection the next day – well wishes for honeymooners and repeat guests as well.)

We set down our bags and wandered back towards the main building along winding paths, across rolling lawns, past hammocks swinging in the breeze and Jacuzzis steaming into the night sky, making a mental “to-do” list of every temptation we passed, as we headed for dinner. We were still dressed for the road in casual attire, and while Hawaii is known for the casual look, collared shirts are de rigeur after 6 in the dining room, so we settled in the lounge, ordered off the dinner menu from the dining room, and enjoyed an hour of live Hawaiian music and hula along with our dinner.

Later, as we made our way back to the cottage, I asked my husband what time it was. “I don’t know” he said “and I don’t care. It doesn’t matter.” And that is when I realized I was truly on vacation. We changed into swim suits, sank into a ferociously hot Jacuzzi, and giggled under the stars, completely alone under the most glorious night sky you can imagine. We returned to the cottage for bed, noting that lack of alarm clock, TV and radio, and sank into a blissful sleep on a mattress topped not only by a thick quilted top, but also a feather bed, wrapped in luxury cotton sheets. Heaven.

The next morning, we were up for sunrise, which is exquisite on the East Side of Maui. After grinding local Maui-grown coffee beans and making a fresh pot of coffee, we relaxed on the deck overlooking the ocean, watching horses at pasture, and trees (a dizzying mix of palm and pine) swaying the breeze. Steaming mugs in our hands, and bringing a “just-in-case” umbrella, we headed out for yoga – a complimentary class held in a hardwood-floored studio overlooking the peaceful garden pool. We stretched and relaxed to the sounds of birds and surf crashing nearby. We returned to our room to change for a coastal horseback ride, and walked the 2 blocks to Hana town.

The next two hours are a blur of sights and sounds, the wind blowing through our hair and the sun on our shoulders. We walked past churches and the old Hana School, browsed the bulletin boards, relaxed at the Hana Ranch Restaurant, and listened to old friends making jokes and talking about the catch from that morning’s fishing. We made our way, eventually, to the stables. My husband rode Pal, a very large horse who apparently likes not only to be in front, but also enjoys breaking into a strong gallop with no urging from his rider whatsoever. My husband hung on gamely as he took his very first trail ride – and what a trail. The horses led us along the rugged Hana Coastline, pausing for pictures, and to absorb the beauty laid out before us, and every so often becoming so absorbed in the view, they simply refused to move, as if to say “STOP and enjoy this, you are missing the best part !” My horse Cody spent a lot of time nibbling on the toes of my sneakers, and while it was very sweet, those sneakers will not be making it back to the gym, and I vowed to remember my boots the next time.

When we found ourselves back in the comfort of our cottage, showered and sunburned, and hungry, we contemplated room service….but my husband decided to head over to the pool and relax in one of the hammocks, and order a sandwich over there. I had a few things I needed to do to prepare for the radio show (www.mccoytravelradio.com) and I also had a site inspection and a Tahitian Dance lesson to get to.

After calling in to our broadcast, I shopped at several stores on property, walked through the spa, and had the most inspiring dance experience ever. While I doubt I will ever be able to move my hips like that, it’s nice to dream, and my instructor made sure I wasn’t overwhelmed – 2 basic moves, that I still managed to bungle over and over again while I sweated and shimmied and gyrated. I’ll say this for sure – Tahitian Dance is a workout !

At the end of the day, after touring the property and making some great friends, we said a reluctant goodbye to Hana, and Hotel Hana Maui. We had to get back to the kids, and pack for our next great adventure – Hanalei.

The end of the road - Hana