The North Shore of Mau is beautiful. It is not filled with resorts - it is mostly residential and agricultural, mixed wth some great natural and cultural treasures. While Maui is FILLEDwith gorgeous resorts, there is something to be said for leaving the resort areas fora day (or 3) and checking out the rest of the island. I always recommend spending a few days on the North Shore, at the beginning or end of your journey.
My ideal itinerary would be 4 days of luxury in Wailea, followed by 2 nights in Hana, and one night in Paia (in any order). And The one night in Paia would best be spent at either The Inn at Mama's or Paia Inn. Read on for a review of Paia Inn that I wrote for a local newspaper, the Haleakala Times......
Paia Inn opens as a Beachtown Boutique Hotel
The Paia Inn and its shops, located at 93 Hana Hwy right in the heart of Paia town, are officially open for business. With the opening of the Inn, visitors to Maui have a new option in accommodations on the North Shore of Maui. Rather then staying (and spending their vacation dollars) on the South Shore or West Side, they can spend virtually their entire vacation in an area where before, they might have browsed for just a few hours. On May 31, there was a grand opening celebration, and the property was blessed by Sam Ka’ai. Over 200 neighbors and residents came to mark the occasion, and take tours of this “beachtown boutique hotel”. Owner Michael Baskin is thrilled to see his project completed, and the building reprising its role within the community. “It was truly an honor for Sam to do the blessing. It gave me chills to hear him talk about the dreams that will be fulfilled here at the Paia Inn Building”
In the wake of the TVR closures in 2007, locals and visitors alike were left with a serious challenge finding places to stay on the North Shore. Some residents felt that they wanted to see the island, and particularly the residential North Shore, return to it’s roots, as a place for local families to live, self-sustain, and strengthen their community. The recently opened Paia Inn is a solution to both the shortage of accommodations, and the desire to embrace the history of this area.
The Paia Inn building was originally constructed in the early 1920’s and has retained the same basic floor plan since then. Baskin gave me some information about the history of the building: “In the 1930s it is believed to have been run as a small Japanese hotel. At that time, Paia was a bustling town with over 10,000 residents and there was a theater and a few small hotels. It weathered a tidal wave that passed right beside it the 1940s, and around 1962 it became a small hotel/lodging house known as Bersamin-Lodging House. In 1988 it became the Paia Lodge.” The latest renovation and restoration was just completed in May of this year. There are two retail shops downstairs: Imrie Boutique and local artist Avi Kiriay Art Gallery have store fronts on Hana Hwy. A gourmet deli is opening soon, and will be open to the public as well as providing room service to the guest rooms. There is parking available, but given the hotel’s central location, there is no urgent need for a rental car. To complete the guest experience, the inn includes on-site resident staff, and there is exclusive beach access for hotel guests.
I visited the Paia Inn just last week, after their first visitors had checked out. I was struck by the sudden quiet as I walked into the courtyard entrance behind the building - the traffic and bustling surf town disappeared as the gate swung shut behind me. There was a bubbling fountain, café tables and chairs, statues, flowers, and a path leading to heavy double doors. I opened one, and peeked inside. I was very surprised to find a sort of urban oasis – a lobby with black concrete floors, sleek leather sofas, colorful artwork, capiz shell chandeliers, and a long teak front desk. One wall features a state of the art, 60-inch flat screen TV and accompanying stereo system, and the air conditioning was a refreshing change from the heat of town. Owner Baskin introduced me to the co-designer and project manager Sarah Sparks, filled me in on some of the specifics of the accommodations, and then took me on a tour.
Michael Baskin was raised in family-owned boutique hotels in the Caribbean, and he is returning to his roots with the Paia Inn. Well aware of the amenities travelers look for in a smaller hotel, he has worked with Sparks to create a hip bohemian vibe that seems to fit in perfectly with Paia’s international flavor and youthful energy. Baskin knows Paia well – he moved here with his mother, Naomi Hillinger, in 1976. A member of the Paia Main Street board for the past 5 years, Baskin has offered advice on architectural designs for the town. “The challenge is to help these old buildings maintain their character and their histories, and at the same time to repair and restore old deteriorating structures.”
The Paia Inn meets those challenges head-on. Baskin and Sparks blended modern trends in interior design with the character of the building. “We did not change any of the layout of the existing building. The original 5 rooms upstairs are still there, but they have been redecorated and upgraded, with hard wood floors, decor lighting, and lots of art. We created a setting of luxurious bedding, art, travertine bathrooms, but still you feel like you are part of the history of the town. You can look out the window and see the bustling of Paia town, and at the same time feel like you are being pampered inside. We all know the town is full of old timers, locals, yogis, surfers and trendy people too that make up a fabric of a new more progressive town. We are excited to be a part of that.” During my tour, I went into all 4 guest rooms, and the 2 room suite. The rooms have clean lines, lots of light, modern fixtures, small refrigerators, and air conditioning. Most importantly, they are completely sound proofed.
All of the artwork in the hotel is by renowned Maui artist Avi Kiriaty, and you feel as though you are walking through an art gallery as you move from room to room – the colors and characters captured on these canvases seem a perfect reflection of this sunny beachside town.
As we walked back downstairs, Baskin explained a bit about his history with Paia. “My mom used to run the smoothie bar at Charley’s when I was only 15 years old. I love it here, the diversity of the people and the feel of walking the town with great shops, boutiques and cafes and its colorful people. I am excited to have helped to design and renovate a landmark building in the town, one that will offer locals and visitors a place to stay so they can truly enjoy the total Paia experience.”
Paia Inn is also focused on supporting local organizations that improve the lives of Maui residents. When guests check in, they can choose from 3 charities, and the Paia Inn will donate a percentage of the sale to that organization. This year the choices are: The Paia Youth and Cultural Center, Camp Imua, and The Hawaii Wildlife Fund.
For more information on the Paia Inn, visit their website www.PaiaInn.com
Other accommodations on the North Shore:
The Inn at Mama’s Fish House currently has 9 units, and will have a total of 12 by the end of the year, gathered in the protected beach cove next door to the landmark restaurant in Ku’au, just outside of Paia. Private, self-contained cottages provide a laid-back, family friendly villa experience. The beach is perfect for children and weddings, and management is on site to make sure you have everything you need. Rates start at $175/night.
The bohemian Spy Glass House, currently closed pending permit hearings, is perched on the water’s edge outside of Paia town. This blissful oceanfront retreat is known world-wide for it’s dramatic location and healing energy. The owners are currently going through the process of public and council hearings, in the hopes that they will be able to reopen as another lodging option on the North Shore. Please check local publications for notices of hearings.
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